• Rowe Ami Jukebox Models
• Nsm City 2 Jukebox Manual

No problem, Patrick. Glad we can help.About your CCC. I recall seeing that RAM problem before and I think that the Eprom may be getting close to malfunctioning.

I want to say that the issue went away when I changed the Eprom and the battery, but not 100% sure.Alan, what do you think?The battery is easy to change out; a 5 minute job. All you need is a 2032 battery and battery holder, soldering iron, solder sucker and new solder. I carry the latest v4.3 Eproms. It is a simple plug-in socket connection.John. Alan,I came home and cleaned the 2 relays on the top with paper like you told me. Then I tried picking one of the T selections and it worked, but then I tried the U and V selections and now they are having the same issue. I kept trying different selections on u and v then all the sudden the wiper started spinning and wouldn't stop.

Rowe Ami Jukebox Models

At this point I was beyond let down, I looked around and I played with the contacts by s2 then it picked a song normally and played it. But during the whole song I heard a humming, it turned out S2 wouldn't disengage. I had to turn the box off then wiggle the sprag back and for to free it up. Now its selecting songs again. What can I check to diagnose that problem also? Also I didn't want to try using Alcohol to clean the keys without checking with you first.

I picked up a Rowe MM5 and am having problems with the record changer wiring. My manual does not seem to have the correct wiring for the harness, relay and diodes. The schematic shows the w/y wire comin from pin 8 of the harness (which has no lead attached to the harness side of the plug) going to tab 3 of the middle solder tab where it connects to the w/y wire that goes to the slip wiper on the stop switch. The step by step circuit diagrams show the w/y wire connecting to diode 2 on tab 4.

However the schematic shows a W wire from the relay and a W wire going to CS5 on tab 4 where diode2 starts. I have wired in accordance to the schematic and the stop switch is not working. Seems like there is no way for it to complete a circuit as wired. So if anyone has an updated schematic or can provide a detailed description of the harness plug, relay, and diode set-up, I'd appreciate it. I'm trying to match the circuit process diagrams to the schematic but it's tough as wire colors are different between the two sections of the manuals.

I've attached a pic of the schematic with a circle around the tab showing the two w/y wires connecting. Hello Dave,I can supply you with an orginal manual for fror the Rowe Ami R-80.Yes the jukebox has a volume control, it is a 10k log control dependant on the pre amp fitted it could be a single or dual control. The control usually is fitted on let down door flap on the rear of the jukebox, all the input/output connections are on this plate. Just turn the wing nut to gain access.The orginal amplifier that would have been fitted is a 64 watt 601-02179 or 2179A (European export), you could have however have a MHG MK3, a HGM mono amp or any of the earlier or later Rowe Ami amplifiers fitted. It is all down to the history of the jukebox.If you want to contact me direct (I am in the UK) we can sort out any problems you have.RegardsAlanAlan Hood (ami-man)Games Unlimited & Datex SystemsUnits 4 & 5 Lion ParkNew StreetHalfwaySheffieldS20 3GH0114 247 0242 phone0114 251 0727 faxalan-hood@datex.co.uk. Bumping to see if anyone has a proper schematic or picture of wiring for the MM5.

Hoping to work on it this weekend. I've been trying to work back from the operating schematics in the manual, but it's a bit difficult as they only show partial views of the schematic based on the process.Working from memory (I disassembled the wiring to install new relay socket) I think the major differences in wiring from my unit to this schematic are the orange wire from pin 4 on the harness went to relay pin 13 & 2 and then over to diode 4 and the resistor on the solder tab.

The cap went from relay pin 3 to 14. A larger resistor went from relay 14 to diode 2 (no other wire betweenthe two) and there was no 22ohm resistor on the relay assembly. I tried wiring back as it was, but still had issues with the relay clicking rapidly and the stop switch not stopping until a few records after it hit the pin.Thanks. I tried to back into the wiring by following the operations section. As before the credit unit works, the search unit works, but the stop switch jumps over the pin.

It is now not stopping at all and the magazine continues to rotate. The stop switch appears to work as I get a momentary spike in voltage at the negative end of diode 2 (yellow wire from sweeper ). DIode 2 feeds the W/V wires which go to pin 14 of the relay, the hub switch, and CS2. Pin 14 is connected to the capacitor which leads to pin 4. CS2 seems to work fine testing with ohmeter.I'm guessing the problem lies in the wiring of the relay which is not allowing the magazine detent and coil to power down.

Does anyone have a good picture of the relay wiring? I borrowed this picture from a different post which seems to be the same as how mine was wired.

Unfortunately, I cannot see connections under the capacitor or the wires and connections on the solder tab with diode 2 and the resitors. I beleive from left to right the wires on this tab are w/y, w/v, b, not sure if there are any wires connedcted to the last tab which seems to the resitor from the relay, the positve end of diode 2, and maybe the resistor that leads to the w/v wire at solder tab 2.

If anyone can clarify this or provide a detailed description of how the magazine detent/switch are triggerd that will help.In addition, the original unit had different capacitor and resitor then the manual. I;ve replaced the three dioeds with white print with 1a 100v and the three blue with 3a 400volt. Not sure if that is right or not. I am using 100uf 50v cap which is shown in the manual vs 50uf 25v original.

I would not expect that to make a difference, but maybe it does?Any thoughts appreciated. Hello Bonnie,It could be that the battery in the CCC (Central Control Computer) Rowe Ami part number 40832201 (the last number is the revision number and it may be different).The fluorescent tube not working is not the cause, this may need a new 110 volt starter or a new tube.What country do you live in? If it is the USA then I would contact Bruce Wentworth from AB Leisure.In Europe they by all means contact me for testing/repair of your boards and laser head.RegardsAlanAlan Hoodami-manUKalan-hood@datex.co.uk. 100C 250 watt amp with blown right channel. Both fuses on preamp blown. (stock speakers, no addon's)Found a broken leg on a cap on the crossover for the high end, replaced.Replaced right side transistors and fuses. Checked transistors and diodes on preamp board.

Nsm City 2 Jukebox Manual

(last revision with LED's on board)power on.Sound is crackly on right side. Moved right side wires to other side. Swapped with known good crossover still crackly.Swapped with known good amp. Works fine 100%. (okay, speakers and crossover, output transformers, are all fine.)Swapped preamp boards left to right side.

Crackle stays on the right side. Swapped the equalizer/input board from the known good amp. Something on the output side.Thinking bad transistors.swapped again with new set, new insulators.still there.swapped out the 'heatsink diode board' and it's still crackly.

(note: I have found a few of these with broken solder joints. Often this causes the fuses/transistors to blow as soon as it's powered up)It defies all logic.These transistors I have been using are some I ordered a few months ago. I ordered a dozen of each of the transistors from mouser.

They are 'STmicroelectronics' branded 2SC6284/2SC6287 's. They aren't some cheapy ebay counterfeit deal.at least i don't think, they should be legit but who knows these days. I did use a transistor set from this pack to repair another amp (In fact, the known good amp I used in these tests) a few months back and haven't had an issue with that amp.i'm going to try swapping the output transistor pairs left to right side tomorrow to test if left side becomes crackly. That will confirm if it's the transistors or not.EDIT: bad cell phone spelling can't see to edit for nothing.

Update:swapped the transistors around and it's moved to the left side now. So it's definitely the transistors.I don't think they are counterfeit, but there is some small differences in the lettering between the originally blown ST transistors and the replacement ones i got from mouser.for shits and giggles, i cut the tops off the original blown transistors and the suspect transistors. There is a small difference in the die construction itself (the 'fingers' are slightly different) but nothing odd about it (not under sized or obviously different) The internal construction is the same. (die platform, solder technique, bond wires, all look the same. (no extra solastic in there or anything.) upon inspection, I don't notice anything suspect about them.my B&K transistor checker tests the suspect transistors as good.i noticed that these newer style preamp driver boards (40710105 revision C) don't have any adjustment on them, where the other known working amp has the older (40710104 revision J) board in it that has the pot to adjust them.I'm wondering if a small electrical change to the transistor is enough to have these new boards be somewhat incompatible with them.

Yeah, everything is good with them.i pulled some 'old' transistors (ST branded chips i had in the known good amp) and switched them for the 'new' ones i had in this amp. No problem with crackling at all.the known good amp (which now has a full complement of the 'new' transistors now) operates fine, no crackling at all.it seems this batch of 'new' transistors is 'incompatable' with the new style boards. Since they operate just fine with the older style boards.I don't know what to think about it. Maybe these transistors have a slightly different specification someplace that's throwing off(whatever the new board does to adjust the bias voltage) the new board.I'll post some pics of the transistors in question to the thread for prosperity.would you have access to a schematic for this new board or maybe a theory of operation for this board. I might be able to figure out what is going on. Hi AMI-Man,I'm a newbie with a CD100 Serial 8267 I have been unable to find an alpha suffix anywhere. Overall it works good one of the problems I am having is that when I make a selection it plays a previous played selection.

I would like to play whole albums and singles and shut off and other play options. How can I achieve this. Also do you know what the material is that is on the side of the cabinet and where I can get it? It looks like a faux leather material. Since this unit spent most of it's life in night clubs there is a lot of second hand smoke on all surfaces of the cabinet.

Any suggestions about what is best to use on the Plastic surfaces to clean them up?Thanks,BobFranklin, INUSA. Hi AMI-man and lil-Shawn thanks guys for your responses. Today I bought a Venus that I'll pickup this weekend. I like the CD players I have in them but I have 3-500 CD's I would like to go to a hard drive or iPod.

The issue I have how do I display the selection numbers. My wife says she likes to use the built in buttons enter the cd or song number and I do not want permanently alter the looks of the juke box. I'd like to find away to display the CD covers and playlist on a screen that can be turn like the page on a iPad or kindle. It really comes down to 2 things.

The output transistors (dead channel) and the capacitors (which are now.40 years old now?)it's going to need all the caps replaced in it for starters. Those caps are going to be DRY as all hell. It's no wonder the channel crackles.

The bias is going to be all over the place. They are 40 years old.it's time.the dead channel is likely just some speaker wire got shorted at one time and killed it. The output transistors are going to be shorted on that channel and need to be replaced.

Rock the Night Away With Jukebox CollectiblesWhether you're a collector and you want to rock around the clock with your own jukebox or you're hosting a party and want to please your guests, you can find a collectible jukebox on eBay that's just right for you. Check out this brief guide to how to find a collectible jukebox for a price you'll like on eBay. What factors do you look for when buying collectible jukeboxes?Buyers keep many different factors in mind when determining the value of a vintage jukebox. Some features to consider include:. Age: You can find new and vintage jukeboxes on eBay.

Quality: Jukeboxes that were considered top production models in their time are sought after by many collectors. Manufacturer: Well-known models are produced by Wurlitzer, Rock-Ola, Seeburg, and AMI.What are some major features available in collectible jukeboxes?Jukeboxes have technological features that help them play records. Some technological features include the following:.

Wax disc jukeboxes: Special cardboard tubes covered in wax allow you to listen to 120 revolutions per minute (RPM) music by standing with your ears pressed against a metal tube. This kind of collectible jukebox contains hot pink celluloid cylinders that can also be found in brown and black. Ferris-wheel type jukeboxes: This type of jukebox has up to 10 different record players in it that play 78 RPM records. You can choose which machine you want to listen to after inserting your coin. 45 RPM jukeboxes: In 1953, Seeburg introduced an Art Deco machine playing up to 100 45-RPM recordings.

Other manufacturers soon followed this design. Compact-disc jukeboxes: Wurlitzer created the first compact-disc jukebox in 1989. It provided major upgrades to sound clarity.

Internet jukeboxes- This kind of jukebox runs through the internet and was introduced by Wurlitzer. It provides the benefit of listening to a wide range of music.What are the different brands of collectible jukeboxes available?While many smaller companies made jukeboxes, several companies revolutionized the industry including:. AMI: Most of their jukeboxes are named after popular automobiles and are fashioned with chrome, bumpers, and tailfins. Seeburg: Seeburg developed the first jukebox that played 45 RPM records, the first 100-song jukebox, and the first 200-song jukebox.

Wurlitzer: This company was an early industry leader, making many Art Deco jukeboxes. While they stopped making traditional jukeboxes in the 1950s, the company still makes iPod chargers and has introduced new types of jukeboxes.

Rock-Ola: This company is known for making high-end vintage jukeboxes.